• Welcome, guest!

    This is a forum devoted to discussion of Wolverhampton Wanderers.
    Why not sign up and contribute? Registered members get a fully ad-free experience!

The Velotard Thread.

Can you get the same model helmet?

Dunno. To be honest it was a cheapish version from halfords, and was thinking I might need a better quality one - the chin strap isn't great.
Parents have offered to get me the lights/helmet for christmas, but the back light went a week ago, so I had to get new ones.
With the safety stuff, not bothered about skimping, as I want to be seen/safe/protected.
 
Helmet wise I'm using a bern Allston,good ventilation,flip up peak,covers a lot more of your head than the racing helmets,and get you showing off that you've worn a cassette and a chain out!
 
Probably not been cleaning it too well that is the cause tbh. Definitely following wombats recommendations to start taking better care of everything.
 
Well, the new cassette will cost about £20 for a Shimano one - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette (You need the 12-25 one)

A new chain is about a tenner - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg53-9-speed-chain/

Then you'll need a lock ring tool, about a fiver - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-cassette-lockring-tool-one-size/

And a chain whip, another fiver - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-chain-whip-one-size/

Oh, and a chain tool to cut your new chain to length, cheapest one is £8 - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-universal-chain-breaker-tool/

So an extra £2 for someone to fit it all is pretty good value, IMO.
 
Probably not been cleaning it too well that is the cause tbh. Definitely following wombats recommendations to start taking better care of everything.

Where do you store it? Indoors?
 
Dunno. To be honest it was a cheapish version from halfords, and was thinking I might need a better quality one - the chin strap isn't great.
Parents have offered to get me the lights/helmet for christmas, but the back light went a week ago, so I had to get new ones.
With the safety stuff, not bothered about skimping, as I want to be seen/safe/protected.

It's up to you really. All helmets have to pass the same test (BS EN 1078:2012+A1:2012) regardless of whether they are £5 or £50. If you find a helmet with a Snell B90 or B95A sticker in that is the best standard out there.

You are then down to fit, comfort, vision and weight and that is purely a subjective decision. I would buy a helmet that feels good with and without a hat/ cap/ beanie (our beanies are still in bloody China - goddamn you Christmas consumerism or I'd send you one) so adjustable straps are a very good thing. Also look at what you do, if it's for commuting then I would go for a full coverage helmet as aerodynamics aren't really important to you but the rain is!

Be aware that a bike helmet is there to prevent catastrophic injury (skull fracture) not a concussion and if that if you do come off and see stars this is a concussive symptom so do not get back on your bike for a good 30 minutes.
 
Well, the new cassette will cost about £20 for a Shimano one - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette (You need the 12-25 one)

A new chain is about a tenner - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg53-9-speed-chain/

Then you'll need a lock ring tool, about a fiver - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-cassette-lockring-tool-one-size/

And a chain whip, another fiver - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-chain-whip-one-size/

Oh, and a chain tool to cut your new chain to length, cheapest one is £8 - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-universal-chain-breaker-tool/

So an extra £2 for someone to fit it all is pretty good value, IMO.
Thanks mate. Plus the time I'd save, as can leave it with them whilst I'm working to do it. And I have zero confidence in my personal mechanic abilities!

Where do you store it? Indoors?
Yep, lives in the garage. Plus, it lives in my office at work, as the elements are the worst for causing degrading.

It's up to you really. All helmets have to pass the same test (BS EN 1078:2012+A1:2012) regardless of whether they are £5 or £50. If you find a helmet with a Snell B90 or B95A sticker in that is the best standard out there.

You are then down to fit, comfort, vision and weight and that is purely a subjective decision. I would buy a helmet that feels good with and without a hat/ cap/ beanie (our beanies are still in bloody China - goddamn you Christmas consumerism or I'd send you one) so adjustable straps are a very good thing. Also look at what you do, if it's for commuting then I would go for a full coverage helmet as aerodynamics aren't really important to you but the rain is!

Be aware that a bike helmet is there to prevent catastrophic injury (skull fracture) not a concussion and if that if you do come off and see stars this is a concussive symptom so do not get back on your bike for a good 30 minutes.
Thanks Johnny, I'd been considering a full coverage helmet as it pretty much is just general commuting. I had loads of good intentions, but time is a factor. I do have a thin hat I wear in the cold, as some mornings my more exposed than I'd like scalp really feels the cold!
 
I also need to spend christmas learning better tips for cycle maintenance, chain maintenance and so on.
 
If you're storing it inside then you just need to make sure you keep the drive train clean, especially after riding in the wet. It'll be the saltwater splashing up off the road that will fuck your gears up.
 
I also need to spend christmas learning better tips for cycle maintenance, chain maintenance and so on.
Park tool on you tube is the best site bar none,covers everything and in simple terms,their blue book on maintenance is good as well.
The other trick with bike maintenance if you try and then balls it up,is to tell the bike shop your mate said he knew what he was doing when he said he'd fix it
 
If you're storing it inside then you just need to make sure you keep the drive train clean, especially after riding in the wet. It'll be the saltwater splashing up off the road that will fuck your gears up.
cheers fella
Park tool on you tube is the best site bar none,covers everything and in simple terms,their blue book on maintenance is good as well.
The other trick with bike maintenance if you try and then balls it up,is to tell the bike shop your mate said he knew what he was doing when he said he'd fix it
:icon_lol:
 
GCN on YouTube have got some decent videos on maintenance and bike cleaning.
 
GCN also have some excellent videos on appropriate cycling attire and nutrition. Back to Machin's note, though, and do not fear the pressure washer: anyone who says it'll mess with your bearings is wrong, as GCN themselves proved.
 
Clocked in my 3,000th mile of the year this morning.

lcmvDEV.jpg
 
The first 4 is a series of fnarrs, surely. But fair play to you mate.

Had my chain & cassette replaced. Charged me £45, so less than the costs of a chain & cassette as sourced by the good folk of TWF, so bargain! I also think I now have an extra gear/3 gears, which feels odd.
After payday I will be investing in the good stuff wombat recommended for keeping ones chain and cassette in a clean and healthy state.
 
You wouldn't have an extra gear unless they changed the shifters too... They might have put a wider range cassette on there maybe, which gives you a greater range of gear ratios??

Feels good have a new drive train, don't it.
 
Feels awesome! Need to get it recalibrated, as the small inside cog on the pedals appears inaccessible at the moment when I try shifting into it.
It was frosty this morning. I really wanted to go for it on the way to work (it's downhill) to see how fast I could go. We're all just little kids at heart really aren't we :icon_lol:
 
I always fnarr when I see the road signs "humps for 2 miles".
 
Feels awesome! Need to get it recalibrated, as the small inside cog on the pedals appears inaccessible at the moment when I try shifting into it.

You don't need that one!

It will be you limit screw that needs adjusting. Search on GCN's YouTube channel for front derailleur setup videos. All you'll need is a screwdriver and maybe an Allen key to tighten the cable in the clamp.
 
Back
Top